HAIR TYPES
It can be useful to differentiate hair types in order to best choose the best care and products.
Learn about understanding your hair here.
Two typing systems: Andre and LOIS
Andre Walker, Oprah's stylist, came up with a system and documented it in his book, which applies numerical grading to human hair and describes afro-hair as being 'type 4' --as opposed to the straight type 1, wavy type 2 and curly type 3; with the subcategory of type 4C being the most exemplary of the afro texture (Walker, 1997)
The LOIS system better addresses different variations from person-to-person, variations including pattern (coils, springs, zig zags, s-curves), pattern size (watch spring to chalk), density (sparse to dense), strand diameter (fine, medium, wide) and feel (cottony, wooly, spongy).
- L = l shaped strands
- O = round circular coils
- I = straight with angular or sharp bends
- S = s curls
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////////////////// ALL ABOUT HAIR FOR YOUR STYLING \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
- bulb - hair anatomy
- The bulb is the lowest part of the hair follicle, and contains the growing matrical cells and the keratinocytes.
- canities
- Gray hairs.
- extensions - hair
- Extensions are sections of hair that are used to add girth or length to a person's natural hair (in this case meaning the client's own hair).
This term usually means either bulk hair for braiding, or extension clips that either come with a part to secure them near the root of a section of hair or extension plugs that are pre measured and gathered for bonding.
- finishing comb - hair-care and styling tools
- This is a comb that is used for styling the hair as opposed to detangling or sectioning.
- inverted braid
- An inverted braid is a braid that when you look at it, you cannot see the actual interweaving of the strands. It is inverted meaning upside down or inside out. A French braid is an example of an inverted braid. Herringbone tracks are also inverted.
- lock stitch
- A lock stitch or overlock stitch, for hair weaving purposes, is a sewing stitch that is made by looping the thread around both the track braid and the sewn edge of the hair weft. Technically, a true lock stitch is made by pushing the needle through, doubling back through the same hole, leaving a loop, and then taking up that loop with the needle and thread from the other side. It is much easier to do with a size small latch hook tool than a needle and thread, but for the exam you will have to do it with a needle and thread. So the simpler method of a running lock stitch will be more prudent. This is basically sewing round and round both the track and the sewn edge of the weft.
- natural hair
- The term natural hair has two meanings: the client's original hair, or hair that has not had its texture or color changed using chemicals. The meaning depends on the context of the situation. In order to not get mixed up, it is better to call the second "virgin hair". A natural fiber is fiber that was produced from a living plant or animal. Cotton, wool, and silk are natural fibers.
- parts of the hair
- The parts of the hair are the areas that make up the anatomy of the hair. The bulb, root, shaft, and end are some of the parts of the hair.
- plait
Plait is another term for braid. When you hear it, it sounds like "plat", somewhat like "flat" but beginning with a "P".
- porosity
- Porosity means how vulnerable the hair shaft is to absorbing chemicals it comes into contact with. Chemical texturizing can increase the porosity of hair, thus making it more vulnerable to the damaging effects of permanent hair colors.
- pressing comb
- A pressing comb is a metal comb that is used to straighten or press the hair. It is also called a thermal styling comb. There are two kinds: one that is electric and heats in much the same way as a curling iron, and the other that is placed on or near a flame or a separate iron. An electic pressing comb should never be placed on a flame or heating iron.
- shaft - hair anatomy
- The shaft refers to the part of a hair that is seen above the skin, between the root and the end.
- synthetic hair
- Synthetic hair means man made hair, or fiber that is made through chemicals rather than growing from a living being. This includes nylon, Kanekalon, Yaki, and acrylic yarns. Silk, Italian mink, and wool are not considered synthetic hair.
- tension
- Tension means how tight something is being pulled or held in place. In natural hairstyling it refers to how tightly a braid or row is holding or pulling the hair away from the scalp.
- texture
- Texture means how the hair lays or coils. Straight, wavy, curly, spiral and "nappy" are words used to describe hair texture.
Texture descriptions
- Thready - low sheen, high shine, low frizz—
Thready texture of hair usually has a low sheen, with high shine if the hair is held taunt (as in a braid), with low frizz. Wets easily but water dries out quickly.
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Wiry - sparkly sheen, low shine, low frizz —
Wiry hair textures have sparkle sheen, with low shine and low frizz. Water beads up or bounces off the hair strands. Hair never seems to get fully wet.
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Cottony - low sheen, low shine, high frizz —
Cottony hair texture will have a low sheen, a high shine if the hair is held taunt and has high frizz. Absorbs water quickly but does not get thoroughly wet very fast.
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Spongy - high sheen, low shine, high frizz —
Spongy hair has a high sheen with low shine with a compacted looking frizz. Absorbs water before it gets thoroughly wet.
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Silky - low sheen, high shine, low frizz —
Silky hair has low sheen, a very high shine, with a lot or low frizz. Easily wets in water.
- texturizing
- Texturizing is using a chemical to change the texture of the hair. Permanent relaxers, "conking", curl perms, and chemical "blow outs" are examples of texturizing.
- three stranded technique
- A three stranded technique is a method of braiding that uses three main strands. Cornrowing or French braiding would be considered three stranded techniques even though hair is added to the main strands.
- track braids
- Track braids are braids that are formed by braiding and picking up hair along the way so that the braid lays flat against the scalp. Cornrows and French braids are examples of track braids.
- transition
- Transition means that something is changing. The catagen phase of hair growth, for instance, is the transitional phase. The state that someone's hair is in when they are changing from chemically processed styles to natural hairstyles is also a transition. If you have straight hair near the ends, and the rest is curly, or vice-versa, your hair is in transition. When concerned about how much hair they may lose in transition, cutting off the processed hair may not be a solution.
- typing your hair
- It can be useful to differentiate hair types in order to best choose the best care and products.
Two typing systems: Andre and LOIS
Andre Walker, Oprah's stylist, came up with a system and documented it in his book, which applies numerical grading to human hair and describes afro-hair as being 'type 4' --as opposed to the straight type 1, wavy type 2 and curly type 3; with the subcategory of type 4C being the most exemplary of the afro texture (Walker, 1997)
The LOIS system better addresses different variations from person-to-person, variations including pattern (coils, springs, zig zags, s-curves), pattern size (watch spring to chalk), density (sparse to dense), strand diameter (fine, medium, wide) and feel (cottony, wooly, spongy).
- L = l shaped strands
- O = round circular coils
- I = straight with angular or sharp bends
- S = s curls
- virgin hair
- Virgin hair is hair that is in its natural state and has been neither chemically texturized nor color treated with either a permanent or semi permanent hair coloring.
- wefts
- Wefts are sections of hair that are sewn together for the purpose of weaving or bonding.
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